Cold artichokes with roast new garlic mayonnaise

It takes 10 minutes to make this mayonnaise, but it is best left in the fridge to cool a bit afterwards, let's say an hour. The artichokes should be put on much earlier so they too can cool. It is for 4 people.

My dad once told me my grandfather used to make mayonnaise. I don’t remember when or how old I was, but I was a teen and it stuck with me. I think for two reasons, (1) I never saw my grandfather anywhere near a kitchen, let alone making any food and (2) I couldn’t quite figure out why, if you made one thing, it would be mayonnaise. (Though of course, he could also have made many, many more things, but this is the only food reference I have for him.)

At the time there was only one mayonnaise I was aware of and it came in a big jar with a blue and yellow label and lid. My mom (who is generally a very healthy eater/cook) would serve it with steamed broccoli, which is delicious and also my first memory of eating mayonnaise.

Over the course of my life my esteem for the condiment has only grown. In fact mayonnaise has become my favourite commonly found condiment. I am one of those people who slather it on fries, sandwiches, pretty much anything. And, it was about time I made my own.

As artichokes are currently in season and looking gorgeous …

… I decided to take my first stab at mayonnaise as a dish I would pair with cold artichokes, something that would be good for a picnic in a lovely English garden, and this past weekend was perfect picnic weather.

I decided I should incorporate this gorgeous veggie that makes an appearance in spring – new garlic:

A few hours before eating:

• 4 artichoke
• 1 head new garlic

Heat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius and then put in the garlic on foil in a baking tray. Cook about 35 minutes, until you can push the side of the bulb and it feels soft. Remove from oven and let cool.

Simmer the artichoke in a couple of inches of water until the outer leaves pull out easily – circa 25-45 minutes. Remove from water and let cool.

One hour before eating, you will need:

• Guts of the baked garlic
• 2 egg yolks
• ½ tsp Dijon
• ½ lemon juiced
• salt & pepper to taste
• 3 oz oil
• 1 tsp finely chopped tarragon

Combine everything but the oil and the tarragon in a bowl/blender/small food processor.

whizz it all up. Then keep the blade going and slowly drizzle in the oil. It will thicken substantially. Finally stir in the tarragon. Then put in the fridge to let the tarragon work its way into the mayonnaise and to get it slightly cold (Mayonnaise room temperature is very off putting).

And ... 

The mayonnaise is quite tart with the strong flavours of the lemon, tarragon and Dijon, and underneath lies the subtle depth of the roasted garlic. Alone, the tartness would be too much, but it goes very well with the sweet, meatiness of the artichoke. Eat it in modest dunks like this:

PS: It’s also really lovely on cold asparagus.